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HOW To Adjust The Chain

clipped from bikepoint.com.au

Check your owners manual. In general, the only bolts you should have to touch are the rear axle in some cases or the bolts holding the axle clamps, plus the adjuster bolts themselves (if there are any). On bikes like the late-model VFRs with Pro-arm, you loosen a clamp and use a C-spanner to make the adjustment.

Older series Hinckley Triumphs, for example, use an eccentric in a double-sided swingarm, where you loosen two clamps at the end of the swingarm and roll the axle to the desired position with an oversized Allen key. Current Blackbirds, as another example, are more conventional, requiring you to loosen the axle and then turn a couple of adjuster screws. This system is also the most common on older machinery.

Okay, so we've checked the tension - it's too loose - and we now have the relevant axles/clamps loosened. Move the rear wheel back gradually - a millimetre or two at a time - and recheck the tension. A small amount of rear wheel movement will make a big difference.

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clipped from bikepoint.com.au

Hopefully you'll be able to leave everything loose, sit on the bike (or get a friend to do it) and check the tension. Some bikes running eccentrics may not allow this - you might have to nip up the clamps quickly while you double-check.

If you don't like the idea of doing it on the wheels, you can take an educated guess (usually leaving a little extra slack) and do it on the centrestand. But you need to check it isn't too tight - on the wheels - once you're done.

You are also aiming to move both sides evenly. The swingarm will have markings near the axle to act as a guide and the general idea is to keep them even. If it's back, say, four notches plus a mil on one side, make sure it is on the other. (This obviously doesn't apply to single-side swingarms.)

The only catch is that markings often aren't accurate and you may end up with a slightly misaligned wheel. Wheel alignment is explained in another article in this section.

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